Argentina or the local farm

"Buying organic asparagus flown in from Argentina is no more morally defensible than eating a locally and sustainably raised cow. " says Lloyd Alter in his review of "The Omnivore's Dilema."

I am completely infatuated with this book by Michael Pollan because I've often wondered why on earth I am eating or drinking something, when my instincts tell me that it is full of sugars and chemicals. I don't really want it and more than half the time I don't enjoy it; but I have it nonetheless. Mostly because I am just bored and the choices don't include anything I want to have.
This book is about organic, industrial and hunted/gathered foods. It makes me think of El Salvador and how locally we ate. Yet, even there I remember how the makeup of even the richest soils became altered at the bigger farms with pesticides and fertilizers.
I haven't read half of this book yet, but I am already turned off by everything I see at the Supermarket and Television adds. How can they recommend such bad stuff? and how come consumers go ahead and buy all stuff for their families?
Finally, how can we escape this system?
Finding a local organic farm seems like a short term solution, but in the long run am afraid we are bound to run out of options.